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Showing posts with label Philippine Gemologist. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Philippine Gemologist. Show all posts
September 2025 Brief Update on Lab-Grown Diamond News

September 2025 Brief Update on Lab-Grown Diamond News


In many parts of the world, lab-grown diamonds are now being produced in larger sizes and better clarity levels than ever before. Did you know that starting this October 2025, The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) will be changing how they grade lab-grown diamonds—moving away from the classic 4 Cs to just “Premium” or “Standard”? Meanwhile the International Gemological Institute (IGI); another one of the big three international laboratories, seems to be reaffirming its commitment to continue grading lab-grown diamonds the same way (using the 4C’s) at least for the time being.

In other related news, the World Jewellery Confederation or CIBJO (which serves as the confederation of national jewelry trade associations worldwide) is also set to reverse a decision made in 2010 - and insist that non-natural diamonds are labelled instead as 'synthetic' (similarly to how other man-made gemstones are described). This story is currently progressing as both sides of the industry are weighing in on how to most ethically handle the situation of lab-grown diamonds in our industry today.

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Instrument Maintenance & Upgrades, Reminder of Impartiality with Gemstone Evaluation Requests

Instrument Maintenance & Upgrades, Reminder of Impartiality with Gemstone Evaluation Requests


As certain instruments return from a long-delayed maintenance abroad due to component pricing issues caused by the tariff situation in the US, some that still require maintenance have instead been replaced with newer advanced models that possess higher capacities of performance. (Kindly note that we currently do not offer gemological reports for rough or uncut rocks or minerals for 2025.)

Gemcamp Laboratories Interior

A friendly reminder that our laboratory intentionally does not commercially buy or sell gemstones, nor are we connected to or affiliated with any currently active jewelry-selling business. While our in-house staff (G.G.) hold over a decade of prior experience in the jewelry trade, it remains our policy that no current employee of the laboratory engages in commercial gem trading with clients looking to have their items tested with us. We do this to actively prioritize impartiality in our professional assessments, as well as creating the absence of any vested interest in opinions, results or grading. 

Gemcamp Laboratories Microscope


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3 Myths about Lab-Grown Diamonds Debunked or Clarified

3 Myths about Lab-Grown Diamonds Debunked or Clarified


 

Myth 1: 'Lab grown diamonds hold their value over time.'

Lab-grown diamonds began populating jewelry retail spaces more frequently in 2015. At that time, a good ballpark figure was to say that a typical 1 carat lab-grown diamond would cost anywhere between 10-16% less than a natural diamond counterpart with similar color and clarity traits.


Fast-forward to 2020, and the production of lab-grown diamond products for the jewelry industry has reached substantially higher levels. It would be common to see lab-grown diamonds go for around 45-55% less than their natural diamond counterparts with the same grade. This substantial drop had dealt a heavy blow to early investors of CVD and HPHT lab-grown diamonds, although the trend merely followed laws of supply and demand wherein improving technologies (that had also gotten cheaper with their widespread adoption) created the opportunity for many newcomers to go into the manufacturing business of LGD. It was a lucrative space that was becoming more and more accessible to producers.


As we jump forward to late 2024 and early 2025, observant buyers will now notice that prices for lab-grown diamonds have gone down even further. It would not be uncommon to be able to acquire a lab-grown diamond at a price around 90% cheaper than a natural diamond with equivalent 4C traits. Depending on the source, reports of 92-95% cheaper price tags have also surfaced, giving rise to a divide in the jewelry collector market’s reception of LGD’s. More affordable prices can sometimes blur the gap between commercial jewelry and fine jewelry items, however fans of lab-grown diamonds hyperfixate on the fact that these items are still diamonds- in the sense that they have the same essential chemical composition, crystal structure, brilliance and even hardness. 



Myth 2: 'Lab grown diamonds are “certified” by major laboratories.'


Many of the world's leading laboratories, such as the Gemological Institute of America, issue gemological reports as their official document type (even for natural diamonds and other gemstones). This may be read on their website statement here. Most of the jewelry industry has adopted the trade term ‘cert’ or ‘certificate’ when referring to these kinds of reports, due to the fact that such words have more of an impact from a purely marketing standpoint. 


While many laboratories do accept testing requests for lab-grown diamonds, it’s important to note that there may often be very substantial differences to the way lab-grown diamonds are described on reports in contrast to how natural diamonds are described. GIA for example, at least as of this article’s publication, has announced changes to the format and content of reports for lab-grown diamonds. One important change would be that they “will start using descriptive terms to characterize the quality of laboratory-grown diamonds” and “will no longer use the color and clarity nomenclature that GIA developed for natural diamonds.” - both statements quoted from their website announcements. This will supposedly go into effect in October of this year.


What does this mean exactly? While laboratory policies and systems are ever changing (even quick paced in the recent months), for now at least they have clarified that lab-grown diamonds formerly graded in the D-Z color range will now be much more simply classified as: “premium” or “standard,” based on GIA’s own assessment of clarity, color, and cut. Likewise any LGD that does not meet the criteria even for “standard”, will not receive a grading. Interested readers may inquire directly with GIA on this, as we are only basing this information from their public announcements on different platforms. Such policies may also change or be further clarified at the discretion of GIA itself of course.




Myth 3: 'Lab-grown diamonds are the same as imitations like cubic zirconia and moissanite.'


While this may be easier to debunk for experienced jewelry buyers, not everyone knows about the technical differentiation between lab-grown diamonds versus other kinds of “diamond alternatives” out there on the market.


Lab-grown diamonds are man-made or artificially created diamonds with the same essential chemical composition and crystal structure as the diamond mineral we all know of. While some differences remain (such as crystal habit, which is influenced by the growth method and machinery involved), traits such as Moh’s hardness (10), refractive index and adamantine luster are the same for both natural and lab-grown diamonds.


Now in contrast to this, there are what we call diamond “simulants”, also known as diamond “imitations”. These are in simple terms- materials that look like diamond (to the point where visually they can be very hard to distinguish apart using the naked eye), but do not possess the same essential chemistry or atomic structure as diamond. The most popular diamond simulants used today are cubic zirconia and moissanite, both of which are currently very much cheaper to buy or manufacture compared to lab-grown diamonds.


Cubic zirconia was the earlier of the two imitation types to be invented and popularized. In response to this, a very simple technology was adapted using thermal conductivity detection, in the effort to aid jewelers with the separation of cubic zirconia from diamond. It should be noted however that these ‘thermal conductivity pen testers’ cannot distinguish between moissanite, natural diamond and lab-grown diamond. 


Today, advanced spectrometric tests are typically the go-to necessary screening method used for the separation of lab-grown diamonds from natural diamonds. One cannot rely on those old diamond pen testers that were once invented for the easy detection of cubic zirconia or other older simulants.


Electronic or multi-testers that sometimes make use of a combination of thermal and electrical conductivity are occasionally useful for detecting moissanite, however they are not black-and-white tests as most people may believe. Many HPHT lab-grown diamonds for example have boron impurities that increase the electrical conductivity of the stone. This can easily confuse a multi-tester into thinking that an HPHT lab-grown diamond is a moissanite by mistake. Such is only one of the issues that should be considered when using even the newer types of pen testers today.


When in doubt, especially with high value purchases, it is always best to counter-check the item with a gemological laboratory that does not buy or sell diamonds and gemstones commercially. An impartial, third-party assessment is usually the most ethical and accurate choice for transparency in the jewelry trade today, which is why most of the largest laboratories in the world such as GIA, SSEF, Gem-A and HRD do not buy and sell gemstone items.

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 The Evolving Art of Colored Gemstone Grading

The Evolving Art of Colored Gemstone Grading




While many of you are familiar with the way most diamonds are graded for color, not a lot of people know much about how precious gemstone varieties like ruby, sapphire and emerald are graded for their most important attribute. The visual aspect of color has governed the values of most gemstones throughout history, even during a time period when the big three colored gems were valued much more highly that colorless diamond. Entire societies would covet the rare, vermillion greens of scarce Colombian emeralds, as well as the infamous 'pigeon blood' shades of highly vivid rubies from Burma (Myanmar).


The trade has often used very descriptive terms to somehow paint a picture of a gemstone's colorful beauty. For sapphires, the term 'cornflower blue' would often be touted as the finest color shade available on the high end market. Such a term was first applied to products from the Kashmir region, back when the original sapphire mines in that area were operational.

Most trade names for gem colors were created for marketing purposes, and as you might expect- there was a degree of inconsistency between different people when trying to imagine or evaluate stones based on such descriptive names. Today, the colored stone industry still holds multiple systems for conveying the color of most precious stones. There exists a much larger degree of subjectivity when dealing with this topic, and so it is always advisable to physically view a colored gemstone of any species before making a purchase. Simply assuming a color profile based on a trade term (or even a description) may be hard to depend on. Likewise images on the internet can be easily enhanced using most modern computer programs today.


At our laboratory, while we recognize the subjectivity of grading colored gemstones, we make use of a coded color-component system popularized by the GIA back when our gemological staff were taking their classes at their campus. In this system, color could be divided into three sections- hue, tone and saturation. Hue pertains to the basic bodycolor of a gemstone. This could be a single main color such as red or blue, or it could be comprised of a dominant color and a modifying color, such as bluish green, purplish red or orangey red. For some gemstones, the hue is also what determines the gem's variety. Take the mineral species corundum for instance. Corundum is defined by its chemical composition of Al2O3, crystalized in the trigonal lattice system, however its two most famous varieties- ruby and sapphire, are defined by their true dominant hue. A gem-quality corundum specimen must have a dominant red hue to belong to the ruby gem variety for example.

This system makes use of 31 different hues, each having its own abbreviated form. Purplish red for instance, would simply be coded as pR. The modifying hue would be marked as a lowercase letter, while the dominant hue would follow as a capital letter. 


Apart from hue, the next component of color would be tone. Tone governs the lightness or darkness of a gemstone's color. Rated as a number from 0 (colorless or white) to 10 (black), a stone's tone plays an important factor in the overall beauty and appeal of its color. The ideal tone values can differ between many separate gem species and varieties. The vast majority of gems maintain a general tone range from 1 (extremely light) to 9 (extremely dark) and typically have their best tier somewhere in the middle of said range- i.e. 5 (medium) or 6 (medium dark). Again, it still depends on the kind of gem though, with regards to the specific ideal tone that the market tends to receive better. 

The third color component would be saturation. Now saturation is the aspect of color that governs its intensity. It is also frequently described as a number that corresponds to a descriptive adjective. Most top color gems would often get a saturation level of 5 (strong) or 6 (vivid). Such would be the way that our lab (and many others) systematically describe the saturation level of a colored gem. Many also use saturation to distinguish variety differences within a species. A green beryl of low saturation for example, would simply be called 'green beryl' and not 'emerald'. A reddish corundum with low saturation or light tone might be classified as pink sapphire rather than ruby. Such topics can be highly debated issues for many gem traders, with the subjectivity of different opinions sometimes causing clashes on where the dividing line exists between two varieties.


This is just one of the many existing color systems currently being used in the jewelry trade, and while it is likely the most comprehensive one, there is no one-single universally accepted system that absolutely everyone will recognize unanimously. Likewise two people using the same system can also have their own differences of opinion, as even the human eye can read color slightly differently (across different individuals).

Color is highly subjective with most precious gemstones, and submitting your gem to a gemological laboratory will allow you to get their unbiased opinion on the specific hue, tone and saturation profile of your gem. This may help you in formulating your own opinion about its color, or aid in counterchecking how far apart your seller's opinion was from that of a third-party assessor's.


In the latter part of the year, our laboratory has procured a very rare set of color grading reference-paddles created by collaborative efforts between the Gemological Institute of America and the Pantone color company. The three dimensional color-calibrated plastic paddles mimic the visuals of a gem, while allowing you to see color differences in much greater depth and appreciation. The 324 GIA Gemset system is widely known to be the most specialized instrumental aid in determining the color of non-diamond gemstones across the history of the jewelry industry. Unfortunately due to a combination of its very high price and the acquisition of Pantone by X-Rite, the set is no longer in production for new customers to acquire today. Laboratories would either have to make use of 'flat' reference images such as computer software created pictures or relatively inexpensive transparent comparison sheets. Both of these work well enough, but do not give the same level of comparative support for color grading when pit against a full three dimensional system such as the GIA Gemset. Whenever comparative aid is necessary, our gemological staff and graders make use of this system to help evaluate gemstones graded with our laboratory since July of this year and onwards. 







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Round Brilliant Cuts VS Fancy Cuts, Diamond Preferences

Round Brilliant Cuts VS Fancy Cuts, Diamond Preferences



It's common knowledge that a diamond can be faceted in a number of different ways. We see a lot of proprietary or 'branded' cuts today, with each manufacturer marketing the unique brilliance or fire their own patented cut provides. Despite the overwhelming array of choices made available to jewelry collectors today, the most popular diamond cut of all has been the same one for a very long time now. 

The standard or 'modern' round brilliant cut hosts 57 or 58 facets, depending on whether or not the stone is fashioned with a culet. Each facet or 'tiny surface' is polished into the diamond at specific angles in order to interact with light in vibrant ways, bouncing it around the gem's interior before sending it back to the human eye. Marcel Tolkowsky's original round brilliant cut continues to stand the test of time, ranking as the most popular choice for faceted diamond cuts today.



On the other hand, if you've heard the term 'fancy cut' and don't yet know what this means, it basically refers to any diamond cut that is not a standard round brilliant. We're sure that many of you are familiar with princess cuts and emerald cuts. Both very popular choices, with equally elegant trade names. Princess cuts are typically square shaped brilliant cuts, while emerald cuts are basically step-cut rectangular shapes with cropped or beveled corners.

Fancy cuts or fancy shapes suit a vast diversity of jewelry designs. Marquise cuts for example, are very elongated with pointed ends- making the diamond resemble a tiny boat, which is probably why some people used to call it the 'navette cut', referring to this imagery. Certain other cuts, such as the cushion cut, combine the appeal of two styles- adding the soft curves of a round brilliant to the large impression of more squarish cuts. The cushion, resembling a pillow's outline, is also a  popular choice for many types of colored stones in the trade.



Demand-wise, round brilliant cuts are still the forerunner, and so they usually command slightly higher prices than the other fancy cuts, all other traits being equal. The ever-changing value of diamond is very dependent on the trade and current demand brought about by the public sector. Most pricing guide companies even separate their valuation charts for round brilliant diamonds versus those for all the other fancy shapes. 

Personal preference rules out in the end, as each person maintains their own personal taste for accessorising with fine diamond jewelry. More and more styles are being developed every day. Maybe in the future, we'll see a diamond cut that exceeds the global demand profile of the current reigning preference, but that day hasn't yet come.

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Two Major March Hong Kong Jewelry & Gem Fairs Postponed to May 2020

Two Major March Hong Kong Jewelry & Gem Fairs Postponed to May 2020



Diamond and gemstone traders will have to wait a little longer this year for the world’s largest jewelry fair to take place. The Hong Kong International Diamond, Gem & Pearl Show, supposedly scheduled for March 2 to 6, has now been moved to May 18 to 21 by the event’s organisers due to the recent events related to the corona virus. 


The traditional-tandem fair; the Hong Kong International Jewellery Show, which was supposed to be held on March 4 to 8 at the Wan Chai Convention center has been postponed and relocated this year as well. It will be held at the Asiaworld Expo area, on the same dates as the Hong Kong International Diamond, Gem & Pearl Show.





* This blog article is dated February, 2020, and we recommend for you to check updated information from the Hong Kong Trade Development Council's (HKTDC) website directly in case of any future changes or updates to these initially shared details.



Some are worried about the two fairs’ announced postponement, as the new dates are now nearer to other traditionally scheduled international jewelry fairs, such as the 'Baselworld' show (held in Switzerland | Messe, Basel) and also the next running June Show (to be held in Hong Kong as well).

The past two years have been a little rough for the world’s largest diamond and jewelry shows, from typhoon limitations in 2018, to a lower attendance due to protest fears last September. 

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Are There Any Risks Involved When Asking Someone Else to Resize or Repair Diamond Jewellery??

Are There Any Risks Involved When Asking Someone Else to Resize or Repair Diamond Jewellery??


When re-setting, repairing or re-sizing diamond jewelry items, you should always consider several factors that involve the protection of your precious gemstone possessions. Always make sure that the bench jeweller performing the repair-work is credible and properly trained. Diamonds may be hard on the Moh's scale (10), but some areas like their girdles are incredibly thin. Chipping is more common than you think and girdle edges are some of the most vulnerable spots where a diamond can get damaged if not handled correctly by a jewelry repair shop.



Diamonds also have certain planes of atomic weakness called 'cleavage directions'. This means the bonds between atoms in these crystallographic directions are weaker. If a diamond is struct with the right amount of force along these directions, more severe damage like splitting can possibly occur.

Some professionals remove the stone before doing any work on the metal, while others opt to keep it in place. It would also depend on the specific area of the jewelry item to be repaired, as well as the type of work that's required. It's always best to go for the long-term experts in the industry, who have a reputation for taking good care of their customers items, rather than going to just any small shop for a quick DIY tightening of ring prongs or bending of metal settings.



*Ideally, if permitted and not too lengthly, you can request to watch as jewelry item is being worked on. This can also prevent the potential risk of stone-switching. Cases of diamonds being switched out for cheaper imitations like cubic zirconia or nowadays even with lab-grown diamonds, do occur although uncommonly documented. Many jewellers in our industry maintain good ethics and would rather keep their reputations solid- never engaging in such activities, but be aware of the risk as it's always better to land on the safe side when it comes to high-value items like diamonds and jewelry.

(** Our laboratory does not perform any kind of physical repair-work on jewelry, we are stictly a third-party evaluator that administers gemological procedures to identify and obtain a grading opinion on your gemstones. We do insist each and every time that items at our facility must be checked in the presence of their owner or at least a representative, just for good ethical practice. This way, our clients can also benefit the most from their appointments with our gemologist, learning a bit about their item's beauty, rarity and proper care.)
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The Biggest D-Flawless Round Brilliant Diamond in the World

The Biggest D-Flawless Round Brilliant Diamond in the World


Round brilliant diamonds are the cornerstone of the fine jewellery industry today. Many collectors invest in stones that belong to the 'magic sizes' of 1, 2, 2.5 or even 5 carats. To those of you who've been to some of the most prestigious jewellery fairs across different continents, perhaps you may have even seen larger stones being exhibited by many of the international design houses.

Jewelry auctions however, tend to showcase those rare exceptional stones that come around once in a lifetime. Just a few years back, Sotheby's released such a stone that made headlines across nearly every jewelry news portal. The unveiling of a 102.34 carat natural round brilliant diamond.

The stone was a colorless gem with no clarity characteristics, and was touted to be the largest D-flawless round brilliant cut diamond in the world at the time. Its exceptional quality made it even more rare and sought after by thousands of luxury collectors.

The original rough came from Botswanna, a locality very well known for diamond production. It weighed about 425 carats, and master cutters took over half a year to correctly create the finished cut stone from its material.

More rough diamond materials of high carat weight have also been unearthed since then. One of which in particular was acquired by Graff, and contained the potential for a new record-holder in this classic category.



In 2019, the recently unveiled 102.79 carat Graff Constellation was said to beat the previous record by a very narrow margin.

This stone was cut from the 'Light of Letseng' rough diamond originally found in Lesotho mines. It is now considered as the largest D-flawless natural round brilliant cut diamond graded by the Gemological Institute of America at the date of this article.

The photo above depicts the said stone in the hand of Graff Chairman; Lawrence Graff- a pioneer in the global diamond retail trade, and an avid collector record-breaking precious gems.

Among all the fancy-cut shapes you'd normally hear about at auctions, it's sometimes quite interesting to see such a traditional or classic shape like the round brilliant, come in such large and elusive carat weights. One may wonder if any more will be unveiled at auctions in the years to come.
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Grading Diamond Clarity at 10x Magnification

Grading Diamond Clarity at 10x Magnification


While some jewellers have their own proprietary ways of visually evaluating a diamond for clarity (the presence or absence of blemishes and inclusions), most gemological laboratories around the world employ a magnification standard of 10x when performing this task.



This can be done with a standard gemological triplet loupe, however a proper microscope aids in defining the types and traits of inclusions present within a stone. It's a common saying among many jewellers and collectors that stones of SI2 clarity and below more commonly show eye-visible inclusions that you can view with unaided vision, however this is just a general observation and there are always exceptions.

The stone above shows some prominent feather inclusions to the lower left side, which may be spotted by eye if careful or keen enough. The tiny inclusions at the center though would be thoroughly missed unless you were making proper use of a loupe or microscope. Certain inclusions weigh more heavily compared to others in the hierarchy of quality grading. Pinpoints for example, pose no durability threat, however feathers- which are essentially fractures or breaks in the stone, if large enough can compromise some areas of the stone's durability.
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Among the Rarities Featured at the Christie's Magnificent Jewels Auction, a 7.03 Carat Fancy Blue Diamond by Moussaieff Takes the Spotlight this November

Among the Rarities Featured at the Christie's Magnificent Jewels Auction, a 7.03 Carat Fancy Blue Diamond by Moussaieff Takes the Spotlight this November


Yet another magnificent gemstone makes its way into the public eye this month. A 7.03 carat fancy deep blue diamond, mounted onto a a ring by the Moussaieff design house, was noted with a high-estimate of around 14.2 million dollars for its participation during the Nov. 12 Christie's auction event- Magnificent Jewels. The blue stone is accented by around 46.93 carats of colourless diamonds that are said to be internally flawless in clarity.



(Photography: Christie's Auctions, Christie's Magnificent Jewels - Geneva / Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues)

After a short london tour, the jewels headed to their Geneva location for the event itself. Some other notable pieces that were set to participate in the auction were- Art Deco designs by the house of Cartier, including 3 very exceptionally made fine brooches that were formerly in the private collection of Beatrice, Countess of Granard.



An iconic diamond ‘zip’ necklace created by Van Cleef & Arpels as well as a turquoise and diamond Belle Époque brooch from the collection of Dame Nellie Melba, also shared in the spotlight.





Sotheby's news has mentioned the participation of a grand 78.29 carat pear-cut diamond during its own sale in November 13, 2019. The stone is said to possess an I-color, with a very high clarity rating. These diamonds and jewelry artworks are rare and elusive pieces that have still managed to present themselves very well at the events, despite the public sentiment on majority of the common diamond trade's performance this year. Larger and more prominent stones may be the exception to economic effects on smaller diamond sales internationally.




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De Beers' Lightbox Lab-Grown Diamonds To Be Sold at Physical Stores of Bloomingdale's & Reeds Jewelers

De Beers' Lightbox Lab-Grown Diamonds To Be Sold at Physical Stores of Bloomingdale's & Reeds Jewelers


A lot of jewelry collectors may be familiar with De Beers, as the primary mining giant in the world of natural diamonds. Last May, the company shocked the world with its announcement of a direct-to-consumer subsidiary called 'Lightbox', which would sell laboratory-grown diamonds to consumers. This controversial move by the natural diamond trade's number one supplier, added to the concern of traders and buyers alike.



(Photography Credit: Lightbox Laboratory Grown Diamonds)

Now, De Beers is said to be partnering with retailers like Bloomingdale's, in an initiative to finally have its lab-grown counterpart; Lightbox, participate in brick-and-mortar jewelry showcases. This new move also comes with some uneasy reactions from the jewelry trade, which has already seen the natural diamond market flounder a bit this year, due to several factors including the trend of man-made diamonds rising to historical highs.

De Beers markets its Lightbox lab-grown diamonds as alternatives for less-formal purchasing reasons, such as gifts for sweet-sixteen birthday celebrants, debutantes, or even for everyday wear by teenagers and youngsters. This might be an effort to help the public understand the difference in current value between this class of product and natural mined diamonds. Chemically speaking, lab-grown diamonds are still diamonds with essentially the same chemical composition (carbon) and crystal structure (cubic) as natural counterparts. This makes most diamond testers that rely on older technology (like thermal testers or electric conductivity testers) virtually useless in separating the two. Advanced photoluminescence spectrometry, and other laboratory tests are needed for the verification of natural diamonds today. One might wonder if this new foray by De Beers is going to further affect the mindset of buyers into accepting lab-grown diamonds as potential jewelry gifts for their loved ones.

Lightbox's prices for its lab-grown diamonds are modest enough to say the least. An earring pair we've seen on their website shows a price of 1000 USD for a total carat weight of 1ct., which basically means two LG diamonds weighing about 0.50ct each. The company's message in pricing is clearly heard- lab-grown diamonds are cheaper, because they're a different class of product. They are still diamonds though, and therefore maintain price ranges well above any diamond imitation used today- such as cubic zirconia or moissanite.

While some people are learning to love lab-grown diamonds, especially in the Western countries, it's really up to the personal taste of a jewelry buyer as to whether or not this product is something that he or she would consider purchasing in place of a natural earth-mined gemstone.

In the following years to come, De Beers is said to have plans for a manufacturing facility located in Oregon that would be able to produce about 200,000 polished carats annually, which calculates to around $200 million worth of merchandise for selling. The complex may be estimated to cost about $94 million. Where will the diamond industry take it from here?
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Did You Know That Not All Sapphires are Blue?

Did You Know That Not All Sapphires are Blue?


While most likely known by a large population of jewelry collectors, not everyone is familiar with the fact that sapphires can actually come in a wide variety of colors. Let's start first with a little bit of basic chemistry- Aluminium oxide (Al2O3) that naturally crystallises in the trigonal atomic lattice system forms as a gem species properly called corundum. Now, corundum is not a word you would often hear while talking shop with socialites at parties, but within this gem species rests two of the most famous gem varieties in the world of colored gemstones- ruby and sapphire.



Ruby is actually red corundum, drawing its color from the presence of a trace element called Chromium. A few parts-per-million is enough to interact with the gemstone's chemistry to produce the red color widely coveted in the fine jewelry trade. Meanwhile, trace elements like iron and titanium can be responsible for producing a violetish-blue color, which results in the corundum specimen being designated to the blue sapphire variety.

Ruby and sapphire have very similar chemistry, with minuscule differences in the trace elements that create their differences in color. Sapphire though, is not always blue. While its bluish variety is indeed the most popular, sapphires can also come yellow, pink, green, purple, black, colorless and many other hues of the rainbow. Some of these hues may commonly occur in higher saturations than others. For example, violet-purple and green colored sapphires can appear grayish or muted in intensity, at least when compared to other gemstones of similar color (such as amethyst or emerald). All color of sapphire other than blue are grouped up and called 'fancy colored sapphires'.



The global gem market for sapphires is very diverse today. The biggest or most popular demand surges usually target blue sapphires, Padparadscha sapphires (pinkish-orange) and pink sapphires. Vivid yellowish sapphires are also commonly used, especially in seasonal tandem with the trendy color palettes governed by the fashion industry. Colorless sapphires (especially the lab-grown or synthetic versions) are sometimes utilised as diamond imitations as well, although their dispersion and brilliance are noticeably different from those of diamond.

Many sapphire colors are also produced by heating, or other more complicated enhancement procedures- like diffusing beryllium as a coloring agent into the stone's crystal lattice.

Also do keep in mind that synthetic corundum (lab-grown ruby and lab-grown sapphire) is a very common sight in today's jewelry marketplace. The flame-fusion process of creating man-made sapphire / synthetic sapphire is very widespread across many international manufacturers. Synthetic product can be created and sold at very low prices, as the creation technology (pioneered in the late 1800's) has grown accessible and affordable for many mid-scale entrepreneurs to get into.



Other similar creation methods, like the Czochralski process of growing crystal, are also being used today- not solely just for the jewelry industry, but also for military and industrial purposes as well. This is mainly due to corundum's high hardness (9) and general durability, as well as some of its other properties.
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Checking and Evaluating Your Diamond Jewellery at Gemcamp Laboratories

Checking and Evaluating Your Diamond Jewellery at Gemcamp Laboratories


"Gemcamp laboratories offer third-party diamond and colored stone evaluation and examination services for both your loose or jewelry-mounted gemstones."

Diamonds are evaluated for the 4C's (color, clarity, cut grade and carat weight), as well checked using advanced detection procedures to see whether they were naturally mined or artificially created by man (i.e. CVD / HPHT growth methods).

Our testing services (for 2019 schedules & onward dates) are only for transparent fully faceted-cut gemstones, but not for raw, rough or partially-cut gem materials. We currently now only maintain instruments and equipment for the testing of transparent faceted gemstones (and transparent cabochons) for this year and potential dates beyond. Our institute offers gemological reports for both coloured gemstones and diamonds, encompassing both gem identity and quality grade opinion.

Each stone is thoroughly examined by a resident (GIA-graduate) gemologist in front of you, for complete ethical transparency, convenience and your own peace of mind.



We make use of photoluminescence analysis via spectrometry to check for natural diamond identity against potential lab-grown diamonds that are popular on today's market. Lab-grown diamonds created by the CVD and HPHT growth methods are very difficult for even experienced jewellers to detect, as one requires special equipment and field knowledge for their proper separation. Basic jewelry testers such as those DIY pen-type machines that rely on thermal conductivity or electrical conductivity (moissanite testers) will not be able to differentiate lab-grown diamonds from natural ones. Likewise the presence of just any type of black inclusions, does not conclusively identify a stone as natural diamond. Both natural and man-made diamonds can possess black coloured inclusions. The specific type of inclusions can sometimes help in the verification process, but an experienced gemologist is needed to properly check and evaluate these traits. Guesswork by jewellers or collectors can often lead to very expensive mistakes in the trade.

Our laboratory does not buy or sell gemstones of any kind, thereby eliminating the potential for bias when conferring our independent grading opinion on your diamonds or diamond jewelry. We also do not specifically recommend or discourage sale for any ethically represented gemstone being marketed or sold by any one person, group or retailer. Our employees and staff gemologists do not accept any type of monetary incentive or commission for adjusting or increasing grade opinions, all evaluation results are accomplished completely independent of the client, potential buyer or any other grading institute, retailer or group.

With the rise in quantity of undisclosed lab-grown diamonds worldwide and in the country, we provide an additional level of checking for consumers and stores alike, to help them gain a better understanding of their precious gemstones and jewelry investments.
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The De Beers Centenary Diamond, Once Insured for Over 100 Million Dollars in 1991

The De Beers Centenary Diamond, Once Insured for Over 100 Million Dollars in 1991


Among the most historically remarkable diamonds ever to be discovered, few among them match the grade and quality of the De Beers Centenary Diamond. This 273.85 carat gemstone was one of the legendary natural diamonds to be found at the famous Premier Mine (later renamed to the Cullinan Diamond Mine). Graded at a D color, due to the sheer absence of visible color in the stone, the Centenary also possesses a remarkably high clarity level, with no inclusions visible at 10x magnification.



Cut by noted diamond personality- Gabi Tolkowsky, and his team, the Centenary diamond was even given a special room specifically purposed for the contouring of its design and shape. This facility was located underground at the De Beers Diamond Research Laboratory (Johannesburg, South Africa), and the company brought in engineers, electricians and additional experts in the field of diamond cutting, in order to help sculpt out one of the most important diamonds of that time.



Over a period of 154 days, about 50 carats of unwanted or broken diamond material was removed from the stone. After going through 13 different designs, it was eventually decided that the Centenary would take on a modified version of the heart-shape cut (with the groove absent). In 1991, during the month of February, the diamond was finally finished with a total of 247 facets. The Centenary was once insured at over 100 million US dollars during the same year of its unveiling. Today it's recorded as one of mankind's most beautiful gemstones; a fine rarity that rivals the beauty and magnificence of other famous diamonds like the Cullinan I.

(The main article image thumbnail is actually a precise replica of the Centenary diamond cut by John Hatleberg and photographed by Tony Pettinato)
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A Look at Three Curiously Original Diamond Cuts

A Look at Three Curiously Original Diamond Cuts


Diamond cuts are plentiful in today's diverse jewelry trade, however here are three unique cutting styles and shapes that some collectors may not have seen yet. These original ideas are already on many market sectors in different countries, but so far we have not yet seen any pass through our doors here in the Philippines.







(Photography: Diamonds by Lauren, Design: Henri Daussi)

Henri Daussi Loots invented the curious 'stallion head' or 'horse shaped' diamond cut, which for a time went viral due to its peculiar yet novel appearance. More common than most people would expect, some laboratories in Europe actually see a lot of these being submitted for grading. It's sometimes called the 'Horse Brilliant', although others simply consider it as a free-form shape with a brilliant faceting style. Perhaps there is a cutter out there who has experimented with creating a full-bodied horse cut, however this may entail thinner details that could possible be difficult because of durability issues.


(Cut Design: George Saltzman)

Decades ago, George Saltzman first created his 'Christmas Tree' cut, which made use of the popular seasonal image to sometimes appropriate irregularly shaped or broken rough diamonds into a style that was more relatable and original. This cut had a niche market and was considered as an interesting conversation starter for jewelry afficionados who collected one for themselves, although today it isn't widely seen in the U.S. anymore, as most cutters who later adapted similar designs focused more on cheaper colored gemstones such as london blue topaz.



(Photography: Schreiner Fine Jewellery)

In the mid 1990's, another specialty cut was co-created by a buddhist and (Antwerp-based) Oliver Korn. It was dubbed the buddha cut, and showcased the silhouette of a seated buddha figure, with the culet / center situated at the middle chest area of the figure. This cut became widely popular with asian markets due to appropriation of both religion and culture into this specific design. 33 crown facets and 21 pavilion facets made up the initial patented cut. There was also a requirement that the head area of the buddha cut remain inclusion-free, which was passed on to the gem cutters who worked with the design.
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The 392.52 carat Blue Belle of Asia, An Extraordinary Sapphire (4th Largest in the World)

The 392.52 carat Blue Belle of Asia, An Extraordinary Sapphire (4th Largest in the World)


While many notable fancy colored blue diamonds grace the halls of auction houses around the world, colored stones like blue sapphire can also achieve a level of quality and prominence worthy of high distinction and exclusivity. One of the largest pristine blue sapphires ever to arrive at the international jewelry scene is aptly named the Blue Belle of Asia.



This 392.52ct vivid blue gemstone was recorded as the fourth largest sapphire in history, following the likes of the Queen of Romania Sapphire, the Blue Giant of the Orient, and the Logan Sapphire. It was mentioned that this particular gem was unearthed from the gem-rich mines of Sri Lanka, previously referred to as Ceylon. Many blue sapphires of bright saturation and medium to medium-light color are still called 'Ceylon Sapphires' due to the notable production of fine blues associated with the area.

The Blue Belle of Asia has a long history of ownership. After its discovery in the 1920's, it was soon obtained by Macan Markar in Colombo. Then in 1937, Lord Nuffield, the founder of Morris Motors Limited bought the sapphire for his estate. There were some indications that the stone had meant to be presented to Queen Elizabeth for her coronation in May of 1937, however this did not happen as the Blue Belle instead vanished from the public eye for the next several decades.



In 2014, Christie's auction house held a Geneva auction wherein the Blue Belle of Asia was seen again. The stone at the time was listed by a private persona, and it eventually sold for just over 17 million dollars, which at the time broke all records for the most expensive colored gemstone to be sold at auction. There are not many sapphires of this quality and size, even in national museum displays and exhibitions.

Its historical significance and rarity shows collectors that sapphire's place as part of the 'Big Three' colored gemstones (along with ruby and emerald) is well earned in the jewelry trade, and that fine blue sapphires are truly some of the rarest treasures of nature.
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Moissanite, One of the Most Captivating Diamond Imitators Today

Moissanite, One of the Most Captivating Diamond Imitators Today


Throughout the past several decades, two man-made gemstones have been touted to be the most commonly traded diamond simulants in most parts of the world. Take note, the word simulant refers to an imitation or something that is chemically-unlike the gemstone it is imitating. Moissanite and cubic zirconia both resemble diamond to the naked eye, save for some small subtle factors, however studying gemological properties can help you separate the the two from diamond.

(Commercial testers that rely on thermal or electrical conductivity must be used with experience and caution, sometimes these do not exhibit consistency in their readings. We never use handheld or 'diy' machines as primary tests or on their own.)

Between the two imitator gems, moissanite is usually slightly more expensive. It also has some properties that even exceed those of diamond. Moissanite's 2.65 refractive index value for example, is even higher than diamond's 2.42 value. Refractive index governs the slowing and directional change of light as it enters a gemstone's more optically dense material from another material like air.

If your familiar with 'fire' the term used to describe those colourful flashes or sparks you would see while rocking or tilting a diamond, then you should know that moissanite usually showcases more of this as well. Dispersion is the proper term for this observation, and the dispersion rate of moissanite is 2.4 times higher than diamond's. Combine this with its high refractive index, and moissanite's physical appearance can look incredibly similar to diamond's in terms of light display, brilliance and beauty.



Moissanite is not as hard as diamond, but it comes close at around 9.25 on the Moh's scale. Proprietary brands and companies produce moissanite in their chemical laboratories and factories, sometimes calling it under a different trademarked name when it rolls out to retail.

Know though that moissanite is anisotropic (doubly refractive), and gemologists can easily separate it from diamond by keen observation with a gemological microscope. For us, this is a much more reliable separation test than electric conductivity (used by some diy testers), as the latter can often show mixed results due to some diamonds also having electric conductivity values close to moissanite's.

Moissanite makes for a very interesting alternative to the world's current most beloved gemstone. A lot of people here in the Philippines actually have duplicate or 'twin' versions of their jewelry made with moissanite or cubic zirconia. These are worn instead of the real thing for a sense of personal safety at times, with relation to the idea or possibility of theft. These imitations have been around for quite a long time and have since garnered a very large following in the trade. Some people purposely wear moissanite as a gem in its own right as well, due to its physical and optical traits being quite alluring to the eye.

The monetary value of moissanite however is still much lower or cheaper than even the wholesale values normally paid for either natural or lab-grown colorless diamonds.
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The Pastel Shades of Morganite, the Pink Beryl Cousin of Emerald

The Pastel Shades of Morganite, the Pink Beryl Cousin of Emerald


Most of you have heard about two very famous beryl colours that have captivated the hearts of jewelry buyers around the world; the oceanic blues of aquamarine and the forest greens of emerald. The science of gemology classifies beryl as an individual gemstone species, with both aquamarine and emerald belonging to this species, but existing as different varieties.






Photography Credit: BBBGem (above) and Christine K. Jewelry (below)

Today let's take a look at possibly the next most famous beryl variety used in jewelry- Morganite. This pastel peach-pink stone was named after J.P. Morgan, who himself was a notable gemstone enthusiast. Morganite was discovered in California and Madagascar sometime in the early 20th century, and has been circulating around many demure and elegant coloured-stone jewelry themes ever since.

It's no surprise that morganite's specific hue is a favorite of brides, debutantes and socialites. Many tout its color as a graceful accent for modern day women. Although morganite cabochon rings are also popular among men, especially when embellished with the warmer tones of yellow or reddish gold.

For those on a mid-market budget, morganite also makes a great alternative to padparadscha sapphire, the pinkish-orange corundum color that's been trending nowadays on the colored stone markets. Padparadscha can sometimes out-value blue sapphire colors even at fine jewelry auctions, so despite popularity, these stones can feel quite expensive for many collectors.


Morganite can be found in many parts of the world, like Brazil, Russia, Mozambique and Namibia among other places, but the best qualities are still quite sporadic in distribution. The supply and demand of gemstones plays an integral part in its popularity within the trade. Morganite currently sits behind aquamarine and emerald in terms of both public reception and price, however it has enough of a following for jewelers to actively use it as a main center-stone in rings, pendants and many other types of personal jewelry wear.

Sometimes called pink beryl, morganite's colour can range from a lightly toned brownish peach to salmon pinks with good saturation, although most material is typically orangey pink in a subtle pastel shade. Fashion trends love to make use of morganite along with light blues, and rose gold colours.
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Watching Frank Everett's Narration on The Magnificent Jewels of Barbara Sinatra

Watching Frank Everett's Narration on The Magnificent Jewels of Barbara Sinatra


Many connoisseurs in the jewellery trade are familiar with the annual auction events held internationally. From Geneva to New York, greatly anticipated events led by the duopoly of Christie's and Sotheby's auction houses, have shown us some of the world's most tantalising jewellery from human history's most well known brands and designers.




Photography: Sotheby's Auction House, Plume necklace by Jean Schlumberger (Tiffany & Co.)

One particular storyteller we often like watching (just for his charismatic narration of significant pieces) is Frank Everett, who spotlights his own section called Frank's Files, on Sotheby's online platform. Here's an episode link where he timelessly describes a couple of novelty pieces from the collections of Barbara Sinatra (wife of Frank Sinatra) and Happy Rockefeller.



Some of the oldest jewellery design houses in the western world are often featured on his segments, including pieces by Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels and Tiffany & Co. Both diamonds and rare coloured stones are often incorporated within the same piece, creating a mysterious allure unbound by a single hue or theme. Rubies, emeralds and sapphires are among the world's highest priced gemstones, and they're often found in the collections of society's most well regarded socialites and personalities.




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