While most likely known by a large population of jewelry collectors, not everyone is familiar with the fact that sapphires can actually come in a wide variety of colors. Let's start first with a little bit of basic chemistry- Aluminium oxide (Al2O3) that naturally crystallises in the trigonal atomic lattice system forms as a gem species properly called corundum. Now, corundum is not a word you would often hear while talking shop with socialites at parties, but within this gem species rests two of the most famous gem varieties in the world of colored gemstones- ruby and sapphire.



Ruby is actually red corundum, drawing its color from the presence of a trace element called Chromium. A few parts-per-million is enough to interact with the gemstone's chemistry to produce the red color widely coveted in the fine jewelry trade. Meanwhile, trace elements like iron and titanium can be responsible for producing a violetish-blue color, which results in the corundum specimen being designated to the blue sapphire variety.

Ruby and sapphire have very similar chemistry, with minuscule differences in the trace elements that create their differences in color. Sapphire though, is not always blue. While its bluish variety is indeed the most popular, sapphires can also come yellow, pink, green, purple, black, colorless and many other hues of the rainbow. Some of these hues may commonly occur in higher saturations than others. For example, violet-purple and green colored sapphires can appear grayish or muted in intensity, at least when compared to other gemstones of similar color (such as amethyst or emerald). All color of sapphire other than blue are grouped up and called 'fancy colored sapphires'.



The global gem market for sapphires is very diverse today. The biggest or most popular demand surges usually target blue sapphires, Padparadscha sapphires (pinkish-orange) and pink sapphires. Vivid yellowish sapphires are also commonly used, especially in seasonal tandem with the trendy color palettes governed by the fashion industry. Colorless sapphires (especially the lab-grown or synthetic versions) are sometimes utilised as diamond imitations as well, although their dispersion and brilliance are noticeably different from those of diamond.

Many sapphire colors are also produced by heating, or other more complicated enhancement procedures- like diffusing beryllium as a coloring agent into the stone's crystal lattice.

Also do keep in mind that synthetic corundum (lab-grown ruby and lab-grown sapphire) is a very common sight in today's jewelry marketplace. The flame-fusion process of creating man-made sapphire / synthetic sapphire is very widespread across many international manufacturers. Synthetic product can be created and sold at very low prices, as the creation technology (pioneered in the late 1800's) has grown accessible and affordable for many mid-scale entrepreneurs to get into.



Other similar creation methods, like the Czochralski process of growing crystal, are also being used today- not solely just for the jewelry industry, but also for military and industrial purposes as well. This is mainly due to corundum's high hardness (9) and general durability, as well as some of its other properties.

Jewelry isn't the first thought that comes to mind after watching a superhero movie, but the motion picture production of Black Panther actually employs aesthetic creations from Marve's first licensed jewelry makre, Douriean Fletcher. The designer makes use of her unique and powerful creative tastes to help paint a world where one's ability and skill define one's role more in society.



African themed jewelry was an integral creative focus for her pieces, but she also wanted to show the manifestation of both bold strength and graceful spirituality- two traits that the women of Wakanda held proudly in their technologically advanced society. Fletcher mentions that the goal of her jewelry pieces is to remind wearers of an inner strength that they possess.



Her beautiful work was also shown for a brief period at the end of 'Avengers', another movie in the marvel cinematic universe. The usage of gold in feminine, yet strong motifs governed a large portion of the collection used by Marvel. The gemstone amethyst was also incorporated into some designs, possibly pointing to its historical connection with royalty and nobility.



Jewelry does not simply exist to be shown off as bauble or fashion statements. Throughout our existence on this planet, the wearing of precious metals and gemstones signified importance, wisdom, expression and culture. The passing down of mementos and heirlooms was something seen across every nation, with the intent of the older generations to leave behind a guiding emblem of their love and learnings to the children of the future.

(Photography: Marvel Studios & Press)

Here we'll just briefly discuss some of the commonly misunderstood concepts observed in the local trade. Now, certain people may already be aware of these, but it seems that every now and then some people express confusion regarding what many terms mean, and what they don't mean. This short article should give you a bit of insight (and trivia) about gemstones and jewelry.


1. 'Emerald Cut' refers to a specific cutting style and shape, not necessarily or specifically to the emerald gemstone itself. Most diamond collectors may be familiar with the popular term 'emerald cut', but some people are not aware that this term refers to how a gemstone (diamond or any other) is fashioned and polished into a rectangular shape with step-cut (four sided) facets on its body. Emeralds themselves, are very often cut in this rectangular style, because of the way their crystals grow, and the intention of gem cutters to save the most weight. Today, many other gemstones, such as aquamarine, diamond, amethyst and quartz are frequently fashioned as 'emerald cuts'. This specific cutting style is well suited for stones of high clarity, or stones that tend to form elongated or columnar in nature.


2. Rubellite is not ruby. We've come across a few parties that previously believed rubellite to be a form or type of ruby. This is simply not true. Rubellite is a trade named color variety for red to pinkish red tourmaline. Both tourmaline and ruby maintain very differnet gemological properties, and prices. Ruby is traditionally much more expensive than rubellite tourmaline, given a situation where color intensity and clarity levels are generally equal.


3. The term 'synthetic' is different from the term 'imitation' or 'simulant'. A synthetic gem refers to a man-made counterpart of that gem, with the same essential crystal structure and chemistry. A synthetic diamond, is still made of carbon, crystallized in the cubic crystal system for example. This is in stark contrast to an imitation gem (also called a simulant gem). An imitation gem merely looks like the gem it is trying to copy. Moissanite for example, is an imitation of diamond, as it is made of silicon carbide instead of pure carbon. It also grows in a different crystal system.


4. Cultured Pearls, not wild pearls, comprise a majority of all middle to high-end pearl jewelry collections in the country. Some people are not aware that over 99% of all pearls used in the jewelry industry today (especially the mid-to-high ranges) are actually cultured pearls. Cultured south sea pearls for example, are among the most expensive pearl items you can procure, with some necklaces costing hundreds of thousands of dollars. For pearls there are three categories you have to be familiar with. Imitation pearls, cultured pearls and wild-caught pearls. Imitation pearls are simply simulant items usually made of plastic or glass coated with iridescent substances. Cultured pearls and wild-caught pearls both come from actual live animals (mollusks, oysters etc), but a cultured pearl means that man has assisted the developmental stage by putting either a piece of mantle tissue or a shell-bead nucleus inside the mollusk in order for it to coat with nacre over long periods of time- to eventually form a pearl. The nacre layers are still organically produced by the same animal. Wild-caught pearls statistically speaking, are rare coincidences in nature today, and almost never come in large enough symmetrical shapes (round, oval etc.). The vast majority of fine pearl jewelry makes use of cultured pearls. (This statement does not apply for giant clam pearls, which we do not currently test at the laboratory).


5. Diamonds are not indestructible. We would not suggest that people perform any possibly-destructive test to find out if their stone is actually a diamond. Stories of sandpaper-scratching or hardness testing using rocks or other materials seem to be very prevalent among Filipinos. While diamond is the hardest mineral to 'scratch', it does maintain multiple planes of atomic weakness (cleavage). When struck in specific directions, a diamond can chip, fracture or even split in two. Thin areas of a diamond, like its girdle or culet, are also very prone to breakage. This can still happen even if it impacts with something with a generally lower hardness, if done in certain ways. Additionally, diamonds can also burn if subjected to high enough fire temperatures and sufficient levels of oxygen (because they're still carbon).


6. Proper heat treatment in rubies and sapphires is okay and an accepted part of the trade. There are those out there who detest the thought of their rubies being treated, but the vast majority (over 95%) of rubies and sapphires today are actually subjected to some form of heat treatment. It's a normal practice in the industry, and can bring out a stone's potential when done in the correct conditions using appropriate methods. While premium prices do exist for unheated stones, it's just as likely that an originally duller stone's value can eventually be heightened by subjecting it to heat treatment and increasing the overall color quality.


7. Glass-filled rubies are not nearly as expensive as natural or heated-only rubies. These items can be filled with glass in up to 50% of their composition. If someone tells you that their value is basically the same as rubies that aren't filled, you should probably do a bit of research first. Most likely you'll find that glass-filled rubies were originally very opaque-looking low-quality stones. Their durability post-treatment is also not that stable, according to many of our visitors and our own observations.


8. DIY Handheld Diamond Thermal Testers cannot differentiate between natural diamonds and lab-grown / man-made diamonds. These instruments make use of a technology that measures thermal conductivity, a property that is essentially the same for both natural and synthetic diamonds. Other testers like duo or multi testers that also check for moissanite, make use of electrical conductivity. These also cannot separate CVD or HPHT lab grown diamonds from natural diamonds. Advanced spectrometric testing is more suitable for this differentiation, which we make use of here at Gemcamp Laboratories.

For the delightfully selective at heart, a jewelry piece represents more than just luxury. It pronounces itself as a form of personal art, expressing volumes about an individual's taste and style. Most would agree that this could even be likened to high fashion, tailoring beauty to suite the originalities of every client.




The major design houses around the world, purposefully select the gemstones they use for their jewelry. Established designers are always on the lookout for the very best gems in terms of quality, color and cutting grade. This creates the barrier between fine jewelry and commercial pieces. The latter represents jewelry that is merely 'there as is', or bought and sold in mass quantities.



Selecting a sapphire for example, allows one to determine how he or she would like to position the piece of jewelry with regards to current market levels. An unheated cornflower blue sapphire from Sri Lanka would be an exquisite choice for the centerpiece of a high-end sculptural ring. On the other hand, a suite of beryllium diffused orange sapphires may go well with a more affordable but classic channel-set men's ring.

Choosing the gemstones for your jewelry is a time-consuming, but rewarding activity that allows you to expand your breadth of appreciation for the craft. You get to play a part in the creation of something that may be passed down from generation to generation throughout the course of your family's history.

It's an act that does not have to be limited to the design houses alone, or to retailers. Individuals can look for their own stones, and select those separately to bring to a jewelry manufacturer somewhere else. This mixing of sources is sometimes also the best way to get the optimum returns for your budget (although other times it can also cost you more.)




Whether it's for someone else or your personal enjoyment, remember that nowadays people have an easier time finding loose gemstones to buy. The availability of high-end online merchants plus the access to several trade shows will give you a good reason to spend that extra time and effort in choosing that brilliant gemstone to set as the centerpiece of your jewelry.